Crowds of visitors flood the only inhabited island in the Valencian Community, filling its beaches, coves, and streets
Every day in August, hundreds of tourists arrive on the tiny island of Tabarca, transforming its sandy beaches, narrow streets, and rocky coves into a hive of activity. Boats packed to the brim shuttle back and forth from Santa Pola, restaurants run at full capacity, and locals do their best to maintain their daily routines amid the bustle.
“It never stops,” says Vicente, captain of one of the ferries known as tabarqueras, which carry visitors to the island throughout the summer. With just over 50 permanent residents, according to Spain’s National Statistics Institute, Tabarca is the only inhabited island in the Valencian Community—and one of its busiest destinations in August.
Arrivals at Dawn
By 8:30 in the morning, when the first ferries depart Santa Pola, the excitement is already palpable. Visitors, often loaded down with coolers, umbrellas, and beach chairs, rush to board. Crew members sometimes have to intervene, asking for calm when impatient tourists block the gangway.
The crossing takes only 25 minutes, enough time for children like eight-year-old Iker—making his first boat trip with his mother, Esther Gonzálvez—to feel a sense of adventure. “We already booked a restaurant. Everyone says the food in Tabarca is amazing—maybe it’s the setting, or maybe after swimming all day, you’re just really hungry,” Esther laughs.
Beaches Packed, Restaurants Overflowing
By midday, the main beach is completely full. “Not a single spot left,” sighs Dulce María Castrillón, who comes every year with her family, prepared with chairs, a cooler, and even a portable speaker.
Restaurants also reach breaking point. “It’s packed. July was calmer, but in August every boat arrives full,” says Jessica Sánchez, working her first summer as a waitress on the island. Reservations are essential, especially on weekends. “We’re doing three seatings and serving tables until five in the afternoon,” adds fellow waiter Carlos Peral. According to another server, David Gómez, there’s been “a noticeable increase in French and Italian tourists this year.”
Life Amid the Crowds
Inside the village, narrow streets lined with bars and shops overflow with visitors browsing crafts, sandals, and last-minute beach gear. The coves and waters around the island are equally lively: families snorkelling, children splashing, card games in the shade, and boats anchored offshore completing the summer scene.
For residents, life continues—though not always peacefully. “Yesterday I tried to read, but a nearby house had the music blasting,” complains Rafaela, a local. Another neighbour with the same name agrees: “We like visitors, but some act as if anything goes. The noise can be unbearable.”
Calls for Regulation
Some locals also worry about the environmental impact. “People leave bottles and cigarette butts everywhere—they forget this is a marine reserve,” says Fina, another island resident. While talk of limiting access surfaces each year, no concrete measures have been put forward, and the Alicante City Council has yet to announce any plans for regulation.
A Paradise Under Pressure
Tabarca remains a Mediterranean gem, famous for its beauty, cuisine, and crystal-clear waters. Yet its popularity is also its challenge: balancing tourism with the fragile ecosystem and the quality of life of its residents.
For now, the ferries keep arriving, the restaurants keep serving, and the locals keep adapting to a summer that, as islanders say, truly “never stops.”
